The Alta Via One, the “High Route” number one is a 75 mile (120 km) trail through the heart of the Italian Dolomites. Trekking along Italy’s Alta Via One (or AV1) is an unforgettable experience in the Northern Dolomites of Italy. This 8-12 day trek will bring you through towering Dolomite towers being kissed by rolling clouds that dance into the green valley’s below, filled with charming Italian villages. The culture and cuisine will welcome you at every new hut and village you pass through. Stunning vistas change right before your eyes as clouds roll in and out and, if you’re lucky, you will meet local sheep herders while they drive their flocks across the trails and the rolling Italian countryside… as they have for generations. Each day will bring you to a new Rifugio (high mountain hut), where trekkers are welcomed with fine cappuccinos, freshly baked deserts, and spectacular mountain vistas. Dinners of fine local cuisine are shared amongst other trekkers and travelers from around the world. Stories are shared from the trail that day over excellent local Italian wines.

This trek is not to be missed!

My Italian heritage is linked closely to this region in the Valle di Cadore, close to the start of the Alta Via 1. The gnocchi (potato dumplings), fresh pasta, polenta and warm strudel served in the mountain huts bring me back to sitting in my Grandmother’s kitchen, as she taught me the finer points of Italian cooking. Each mountain hut’s meal is filled with these memories, and served with the same warmness. Often familiar faces from the previous days of trekking are found and stories, laughter and new friendships bonded from shared stories of mountain adventure.

There are eight Alta Via routes, but number one is the most travelled and optimal for trekking. Optimal months for the trek are late June to September. The trek is typically done North to South, starting at Lago de Braise outside of the bustling town of Cortina d’ Ampezzo. The next 7 days brings you to the well-known Rifugio Fanes, a modern hut with a hotel feel and fine dining cuisine. This hut is located in the Sudtirol, which has a Germanic culture and where Italian is a second language. The trek skirts along the autonomous province of South Tyrol, or the Sudtirol, which brings a strong Germanic culture to cuisine, language and architecture. It also is represented and home to the Ladin, another micro culture with their own language (Ladin) a romance language spoken only in this region. You can’t help but notice the change in culture from Italian to German, a common attribute of the Dolomites (much of this region was Austria prior to 1917). The huts and their home cooked cuisine are some of the crown jewels of the trek, never pass up an opportunity to enjoy some hot apple strudel at the end of a hiking day.

Hiking in the heart of the dolomites near Alta Badia

Besides my love of Italy, three factors make this trek a win- win. First, NO heavy backpacks. The average pack weight is approx. 20-25 pounds, 9-11 kg, a large day pack. The high mountain huts, rifugios, are fully stocked with bedding, and of course half board meals (dinner and breakfast). Often rifugios have a full bar, and other fresh baked goodies. Lunches are available for purchase and include typical Northern Italian dishes such as polenta and gnocchi, as well as Austria cuisine such as Weinerschnitzel, Spatzli and Knodel. So no need to pack and bring days of food. The only essential items to carry is a sleeping bag liner, water bottle, a change of clothes, toiletries, and weather layers.

Second, advanced hiking permit reservations are not required. For those hikers used to long backpack trips in the United States, you will jump for joy that there is no red tape or permit reservations needed to trek along the Alta Via One. The rifugios, or mountain huts do require reservations though.

Third, the history of this trek will bring World War One alive. The Alta Via One slices right through what was once the mountainous front lines of WWI. Much of this area is what they refer to as an outside museum. Along sections of trek you will walk through war tunnels, trenches, memorials, historic field hospitals and other relics from the Great War. Even the non-history buff can’t help but feel connected to a historical heritage of the past.

Exploring the World War One tunnels near Lagazoui

Other intriguing factors that make this trek a worthwhile adventure are the limited altitude sickness problems. The highest point of AV1 is Rifugio Lagazuoi in which you reach, 2,752m (9.029ft). Additionally, compared to the Walkers Haute Route and Tour du Mont Blanc much of the AV1 is travelled on a wide path, and is less challenging comparably to other Alps treks, with less distance and elevation gain. However, the AV1 does have some committing steep sections near the famous peak, Civetta, that will provide a worthy challenge in exchange for excellent vistas.

The 3rd day of the trek is spectacular, my favorite day, hiking up to the Rif Lagazuoi. This a dramatic hike brings you through river canyons, moonscape Dolomite rock scrambles up to the Forcella Col dei Bos, passing numerous WWI relics, memorials and tunnels along the way. On clear days neighboring valley’s can be seen.

This summer on our Dolomites Alta Via trek we took an alternative hikers trails that brought us under dramatic waterfalls as we hiked through the Val Travenanzes to the Col dei Bos on the way to the Rifugio Lagazuoi. Lagazoi is one of the most popular huts along the way for trekkers and day hikers alike. It is easily accessed by a cable car for day hikers and tourists, its large sun deck provides a perfect rest at the end of the hiking day as you sip a cappucinno, hot chocolate or other favorite after hiking beverage while taking in views of Marmolada, the Dolomites highest peak. At night it opens its high mountain sauna for guests to help one unwind from the rigors of the trail. Lagazuoi is well known for having the best food on the Alta Via, and every year it doesn’t disappoint!

From Lagazuoi you continue along your in-depth tour of the front lines of WWI where the Italians and Austrians fought to extend and protect their border. You cannot miss the many relics, man made caves, memorials, and other trailside war relics from historic battles. One option along the trek is to hike down the steep WWI Austrian tunnels from the Rifugio Lagazuoi, where headlamps are required. This historic tunnel was constructed by the Italians and Austrians to attack each other and protect their position on the highest point in the region. The trek weaves down crosses the valley and you enter the Cinque Torri region, famous known for its 5 rock towers, and the bustling Rifugio Scoiattoli.

As you push farther along the trek, the crowds from the previous days dissipate as you head towards the Passo Giau, and for the first time you feel the pace of moving across the Dolomites. The trail turns into a rocky single track winding through grassy valley’s towards the magnificent lunch spot Focella Ambrizzola. A quick detour will bring you past the site of where the “medival man Uomo” was found, one of the famous prehistoric skeletons found in the Alps. Grazing cows with bells will serende you along the trail, arriving at the cozy Rifugio Citta di Fiume.

The next few days are spent winding along the base of the towering and impressive Mount Pelmo and the Civetta. Stopping for lunch and at the Rifugio Sonino cannot be missed, warming yourself by the woodstoves and taking in the expansive views of the days hike. Staying the night at the Rifugio Tissi is a favorite stop for Alta Via One trekkers. This hut is perfectly located on a grassy precipice allowing 360 degree views of Civetta and the Alleghe valley below. If the sun is out you can enjoy their lounge chairs and relax after one of the best days of trekking in the Dolomites.

The hike continues from Tissi towards Passo Duran on a rocky single track where you wind your way under the towering Civetta. This is an impressive and intricate mountain, each turn along the path brings you to the base of a new col and vista of its summit. The climate and forest begins to change as well as you start to wind more south toward Passo Duran. Passo Duran marks the typical end of the trek for most trekkers. The official Alta Via One trek does continue past Duran through the rolling forests to Belluno where you can catch public transportation back to Cortina or on to your next Italian adventure.

Before you know it, eight days of trekking will be a memory that overpowers your senses as you remember the cuisine, the ever changing vistas of Dolomite towers and stories of other travelers you have met along the way. The Dolomites Alta Via One trek will leave you wanting to explore more, trek more, and welcome the finer and simpler parts of life.

Check out our scheduled Dolomites Alta Via 1 Treks

by Jessica DeMartin, IAG co-director

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