Hiking The John Muir Trail - Reflections of a Guide

Hues of orange, pink, purple, and blue fill the sky behind the jagged mountain peaks towering around camp. The evening breeze begins to settle and the pastel sky and ridgeline perfectly reflect in the pristine alpine lake. You’re just about to retreat to your tent for the night after indulging in a delicious backcountry meal consisting of pesto pasta with salmon and backcountry cheesecake for dessert when you see the moon starting to rise. Just another night in the Sierra backcountry hiking the John Muir Trail.

hiking along Beautiful Royce lakes

 Last summer I had the opportunity of guiding the John Muir Trail. It was a 21-day trip on the trail. Our group covered over 200 miles in that time including climbing up Mount Whitney, the high point and terminus of the JMT, making our way over multiple high mountain passes, descending down into the forest while hiking alongside rushing creeks, and camping near some of the most serene lakes.

bullfrog lake

 Imagine watching the sun rise and set in the wilderness for 21 days in a row. Not many people get to experience something as magical as that while in such a beautiful remote location. 

 While the wake-up calls are early, I love nothing more than the tranquil experience of hiking along the JMT at dawn. Whether it’s watching the fog lift over a grassy meadow, surprising bucks on the trail while they snack on berries, or watching the sun start to rise among the high peaks, there’s nothing like taking in the calm mountain mornings.

 Then the day continues. The JMT is never short of impressive views, but it takes determination and hard work to reach them. From long winding switchbacks to make it over Glen Pass to the famous (or infamous) blocky steps descending thousands of feet down the Golden Staircase, the diversity along the John Muir Trail is unimaginable until you experience it in person.

 Some days can be tough especially when the sun is beating down on your shoulders or when the rocks are slippery from an afternoon rain, but nothing beats having found the perfect campsite each evening. That could be sleeping just below Mather Pass or next to the rapid-flowing creek in Le Conte Canyon or alongside the breathtaking beautiful Evolution Lake.

the last few steps to the summit of mount whitney

 Days hiking on the JMT can be long and exhausting. Much of the trail is above 10,000 feet in elevation. Sometimes it’s hot, other days it’s windy, and sometimes a hail storm quickly rolls in. Things can be unpredictable and these moments can get tough but it’s all worth it when you’re sitting around camp in the evening, unpacking dinner from the bear canisters, watching the alpenglow hit the high peaks during sunset, chatting about the highlights of the day.

 And that’s what keeps you going.

 With so many striking views while hiking the John Muir Trail it’s hard to pick out my favorite moment, but some stand out more than others. On day five we hiked up over Forester Pass at 13,153 feet, the highest pass on both the JMT and PCT trails. It was a long ascent up to this pass and the group was exhausted and moving slowly from the altitude but that evening we descended back into the forest where Bubbs Creek was rushing alongside us. We found a beautiful spot to camp on the slabs next to the creek where we were able to watch the sunset downstream. It was a peaceful and rewarding evening after one of the tougher days on the JMT.

looking south from forester pass

 Like anything in life, there are many ups and downs on the John Muir Trail, both figuratively and literally. Your shoulders and feet will be sore and your backpack can feel heavy, especially after resupplies. But it’s impressive how quickly you gain strength.

 These challenges bring many moments of accomplishment. Moments that are so funny that you’re crying from laughter. Moments where the views are so impressive you almost don’t believe that they’re real. And moments of appreciation and gratitude for what you’re capable of.

guitar lake along the jmt on the way mount whitney

 The beauty, the determination, the struggles, and the friendships made on the trail are all part of the JMT hiking experience and it leaves you craving more. The quietness in the mountains, obtaining fresh drinking water from a nearby stream, and falling asleep under a starry sky all add up to one of the best adventures you can experience in the Sierra and perhaps the world.

by Nicole Jordan
Nicole is a veteran backpacking and trekking guide here at International Alpine Guides with extensive experience throughout California’s Sierra Nevada and around the world

Interested in hiking the John Muir Trail? Check out our 23-day John Muir Trail hike. Limited spots still available for the 2023 season