MOUNT SHASTA GLACIER TRAVEL & CREVASSE RESCUE OVERVIEW

A Mount Shasta glacier & crevasse rescue alpine climbing course for those looking to take their mountaineering & alpine climbing skills to the next level and are looking for in-depth glacier climbing experience. A comprehensive mountaineering course conducted on the beautiful Hotlum Glacier on Mt Shasta's heavily glaciated north side. Unlike some other glacier travel courses in California, our full glacier travel and crevasse rescue course is taught on an actual large glacier which is obviously the best way to learn glacier climbing techniques.

Technical mountaineering instruction includes:

  • Glacier Travel & Navigation

  • Rope Team Travel & Belaying

  • Crevasse Rescue

  • Alpine Ice Climbing

  • Glacial Navigation

Crevasse rescue training will include all hauling systems, prusiking and one-on-one rescue techniques. We will also do some ice climbing on some of the glacier features or out of an open crevasse.

The course culminates with a climb of Mount Shasta via a spectacular technical glacier route - The Hotlum Glacier. The route follows an S curve past three ice falls and numerous crevasse crossings. The Hotlum Glacier has all the features of a large cascade glacier and provides a great glaciated mountaineering challenge right here in California.

Along the way we strive to ensure personal attention, good times and lots of fun! Perfect climbing and mountaineering training for those who have goals that include the large glaciated peaks of the world...or for those who simply want a taste of those glaciated peaks closer to home.

With our recent merger with Alpine Skills International we bring 40 years of experience guiding on Mount Shasta. We know Shasta and will strive to provide you with the most professional and fun experience possible. All of our lead guides have training from the American Mountain Guides Association.

For lodging in the town of Mount Shasta before and after your trip we recommend our partners at LOGE Shasta. They give all of our guests a 10% discount on lodging. To get the discount use the link above or the code INTALPINESG15 at checkout.

We include all technical gear and all your camping gear at no extra cost! All you need are your clothes & footwear.
A $120 value!

 
 
 

EXPERIENCE & PHYSICAL FITNESS REQUIREMENTS

  • Previous snow climbing/mountaineering experience using ice axe and crampons on a big mountain route is required.

  • Previous backpacking experience required..

  • Previous off trail hiking experience required.

  • Excellent physical condition required.

  • Climbing Mt Shasta is strenuous…you must train accordingly!

    Curious how to rate your physical ability? Check out our Physical Ability Page

Recommended prior courses and trips:

Mount Shasta Summit Climb
Intro to Winter Mountaineering
Intro to Mountaineering

2024 DATES:

July 18-22
August 8-12

COST: $1795

Sign up with 2 or more on same reservation and receive 5% off!

INCLUDES

  • All gear you need except footwear and clothing. This includes sleeping bag and pad, crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, water bottles, headlamp and even eating utensils if you need them. A $120 value! ($30 cleaning fee for using our sleeping bags)

  • Professional mountaineering instruction.

  • Breakfast & dinner while on the mountain.

  • Group camping equipment such as tents and cooking equipment.

  • Also includes Mt Shasta summit pass.

    ** Boots are not included on the Shasta climbs, but rentals are available in the town of Mount Shasta

For more info on this trip please fill out the form below:

THE INTERNATIONAL ALPINE GUIDES DIFFERENCE

For over 40 years IAG/ASI team have been guiding on Mount Shasta & throughout California, as well as on many of the great peaks of the world. As one of the most experienced and oldest guide services in California, we bring to you the highest standards in the mountain guiding industry. All of our mountain guides operating in technical terrain have training with the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) in the terrain they guide. We are also one of the most experienced American mountain guiding companies operating in the Alps of Europe and Latin America. Our extensive worldwide experience, adherence to the highest standards, as well as our approachable down to earth guiding philosophy all combine to give you, our valued guests, the best mountain experience possible.

All of our programs are developed and supervised by Internationally licensed IFMGA guide Dave Miller, our founder and technical director. Dave has over 20 years of personal guiding experience on the flanks of Mount Shasta. We know Shasta! 

MT SHASTA GLACIER TRAVEL & CREVASSE RESCUE COURSE ITINERARY

Day 1
We meet in the town of Mount Shasta, Ca at 930am. The exact location will be in your confirmation materials. After a pack check and group gear distribution, we all drive to the trail head for Mount Shasta at Brewer Creek. Everyone is responsible for their own transportation to the trailhead. The 1 1/2 hour drive to Brewer Creek trail head is on a dirt road that requires a high clearance vehicle. We then climb up to the “Hotlum Hilton” basecamp, our home for the next 4 nights. The late afternoon is spent relaxing and acclimating before enjoying a hearty dinner.

Day 2
After breakfast, we prepare for the days instruction . We begin by covering all the knots and equipment required for glacier travel. We then move on to cover all the required snow and ice anchors to effect a crevasse rescue scenario. In the afternoon, we will also do a short tour of the lower Hotlum Glacier and cover glacier rope techniques.

Day 3
Today is crevasse rescue and ice climbing day. We tour higher up onto the Hotlum Glacier to find a suitable crevasse to do a full crevasse rescue scenario. Everyone will get to practice crevasse rescue and prusiking techniques. If there is time, we will also do some quick ice climbing in a crevasse or on a nearby serac. We then head back to camp and get to bed early for our Shasta summit attempt.

Day 4
Summit day oof Mount Shasta! Today, we put it all together with a summit attempt of Mt. Shasta via the Hotlum Glacier route. With an early alpine start (probably 3am), we climb the full Hotlum Glacier, winding around ice falls and crevasses. We exit the Hotlum Glacier onto the upper Hotlum/Bolum Ridge route ascending up to the summit plateau and onto the summit of Mount Shasta (14,180 ft)! We then make our way back down the Hotlum Glacier, or another variation, back to our camp for a hearty dinner and some well-deserved rest.

Day 5
After breakfast we cover any remaining skills and then descend back to the trail head, arriving back in town in the mid afternoon.

Itinerary subject to change & the summit of Mount Shasta is subject to safe weather and snow conditions