Climbing Pico de Orizaba and the Mexico Volcanoes

Find yourself dreaming of climbing new mountains to a new personal high point? Longing for some easy international travel, experiencing new cultures and eating amazing cuisine?  A high-altitude guided climbing trip to Central Mexico’s Volcanoes to climb Pico de Orizaba will push your mountaineering to the next level as you climb to over 18,000 feet and explore wonderful Mexican cities and experience the rich central Mexican culture.

 Our Mexico Volcanoes guided climbing expedition is the perfect next step for those who have climbed peaks such as Mount Whitney, Mount Shasta or perhaps some of the Colorado 14ers and are looking for the next step in their mountaineering progression. The logistics, terrain, altitude and history make this expedition ideal for your first international high altitude mountaineering trip. International Alpine Guides has been guiding the Mexico Volcanoes climbs f or the past 20 years and over those years we have refined our itinerary to what we feel is the best possible that allows for proper acclimating to help with summit success as well as enjoying central Mexico.

The summit of iztaccihuatl and Popcatepetl in the background

Mexico City, the logical place to begin the adventure, is a wonderful cultural and cuisine experience. For mountaineers it is conveniently situated at 7,382’ which is ideal for beginning your acclimating as you walk around it historical neighborhoods, and colorful parks. The roots of Mexico city date back to the Aztecs where they built a city in the middle of a lake. Colonial churches line each street, as well as colorful murals from local and famous artists such as Diego Rivera and Frida Calo. And then there is the famous Anthropological museum which is considered one of the best in the world. Mexico City is also a well-established international hub for fine dining and up-and-coming chefs. Hotels are safe and provide a luxury experience to the start of your mountaineering trip.

Mexico city during day of the dead

 La Malinche

La Malinche is the first Mexico Volcano climbed on the trip and is the perfect progression in acclimatation towards higher peaks such as Pico de Orizaba. La Malinche is the 6th highest peak in Mexico at an elevation of 14,636. We sleep at and begin the climb around 10,000’ making this is very doable objective. This peak is not a technical climb but does bring you above treeline and onto a rocky summit with views of Iztaccihuatl and Pico de Orizaba on the horizon. The hike is approx. 8 miles round trip after which we spend another night at 10,000 feet in preparation for our next peak, Itzaccihuatl. One of the best things about the climb of La Malinche are the numerous fit and friendly stray dogs which accompany climbers along the way to the summit. They make the journey even more enjoyable.

the view from the summit of la malinche with Iztaccihuatl and Popcatepetl in the distance

Iztaccíhuatl

Itzaccihuatl is the 3rd highest mountain in Mexico, and the 8th highest in North America and bumps the acclimatization for Orizaba up a notch, where you will summit at around 17,100’. Itza is a bit more technical of a peak often needing crampons and ice axe at the top. We sleep in a car accessed camp at about 13,000 feet to continue the acclimating process.

climbing Iztaccihuatl with popo in the background

 While climbing Iztaccihuatl the 2nd highest peak in Mexico, the smoking volcano Popocatepetl, is just behind us. During our climb we usually hear and then see the frequent small eruptions of ash and smoke. Popo, as it’s also known, has been closed to climbing since the 1990’s due to continued volcanic activity. Popocatepetl just recently lost all of its glaciers due to the warming climate and its volcanic activity.

After climbing Iztacihuatl we descend all the way to the charming city of Puebla where we enjoy a much needed rest day enjoying the vibrant architecture, tacos arabe, moles, and fine wines. Mole Poblano is a Mexican specialty sauce made with chiles and chocolate created by nuns in Puebla honor of a visiting archbishop. The cobblestone streets, the oldest library in the Americas, vibrant parks will make you fall in love with this city on a rest day prior to your Pico de Orizaba climb.

The bustling zocolo of Puebla

Pico de Orizaba 

Then it is on to the star of the show, Pico de Orizaba. Star is an apt description for Orizaba whose native name is Citlatepetl, or ‘mountain of the stars’. The name allegedly came from the moonlight glistening off the summit glaciers. Pico de Orizaba is the 3rd highest peak in North America and the highest in Mexico at 18,500 feet, a good high point for those who haven’t been above 14,000 feet before.

 While climbing Orizaba is actually the shortest distance and not the most vertical rise of the three volcanoes, it can certainly feel like the toughest due to its much higher elevation. We climb either the South Face or the North Face Jamapa Glacier route depending on which has the best conditions. This gives us flexibility to increase summit success. The car accessed camps prior to the climb of Orizaba are at just above 14,000 feet.

Looknig into the crater of Pico de Orizaba

 The climb of Pico de Orizaba is a steep snow climb up to 40 degrees. The use of crampons and ice axe are usually required and the use of ropes does also come into play depending on conditions. The South Face of Orizaba is not glaciated but the North side is with the Jamapa Glacier. However, the Jamapa is a much receded glacier that does not have any crevasses large enough to be of any concern so glacier travel techniques are not used on the climb. However, the North Face can get very icy and smooth which may make an ascent too risky. That is usually when the South Face climb is used instead. The advantage of the South Face is that it is shorter in both mileage and vertical gain which helps with summit chances. The view from the summit of Pico de Orizaba is spectacular. You look out over the high plateau of central Mexico to the West and the towards Veracruz and the Gulf of Mexico.

the summit view on Pico de orizaba

International Alpine Guides offers at least three separate Mexico Volcanoes trilogy climbs in each season which extends from late October till early March. IAG is one of the most experienced American mountain guiding companies operating on the Mexico Volcanoes. Our Mexico climbs are all led by American AMGA certified and trained guides with the most experienced local Mexico logistics team. We look forward to you joining us!